Custom Corset-Making

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Update:

Due to the large number of people who have contacted me about this class and the relatively small space we'll be using, it's possible that the class will fill up and I won't be able to let everyone take the class. However, this is Hampshire and schedules change, so I don't know how many people who are interested now will actually show up on day 1 (and day 2, for that matter). Therefore, I don't want to assume that the class is full and turn people away, but I can't guarantee that everyone who wants to will be able to take this EPEC. That said, if this is really really important to you, I will try very hard to make it work. ''Keep in mind that the supplies needed for this class will probably cost you $50 or more, between basic fabric and supplies for your corset and sewing supplies. Some of you may already have some of that, but if you're starting from scratch, expect to spend at least $50.''

Also, note that I will be teaching another EPEC during spring semester, on Historical Sewing Techniques for Practical Use, which will be a general sewing class, with an emphasis on tricky ways that people used to do things, rather than fashion industry, costuming, and modern home sewing approaches. Not just because they're old and I like old stuff, but because in many cases they actually work better, and they're useful tricks. So if you're interested in learning to sew, that might be a viable alternative/addition to this EPEC.

What We'll Be Making: While corsets of one form or another have been worn for hundreds of years, for this class we'll be mostly focusing on mid-to-late nineteenth century styles and shapes. For some examples, look at this page: http://www.farthingales.on.ca/corset_photos.php This doesn't mean that you need to make a historically accurate corset, simply that these are the shapes I'm most familiar with, and what we'll be basing our efforts on. During the class, each participant will work on customizing the fit of their chosen commercial pattern, or working with me to draft their own custom pattern, then sewing a mock-up to test the fit, changing the pattern, and sewing up the final corset, complete with hand-finishing and boning. Each person needs to be making a corset to fit herself/himself, not for some other individual, because the corsets will need to be fitted repeatedly and I'm trying to minimize confusion. I expect that everyone in the class will be able to finish one corset over Jan Term, but someone who is more experienced with sewing, and determined, may well be able to create two.

When and Where: We will be meeting in the Lemelson classroom, which comes with handy-dandy sewing machines, a total of seven times during Jan Term, in evenings. I'll be arriving late back on campus from break, so we'll only meet once the first week, on Thursday, January 6th, 5:00pm-6:30pm. The remaining two weeks of Jan Term will have three meetings each, on the days which the Lemelson Center is open late, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday. That means we'll meet, all told, on 1/6, 1/11, 1/12, 1/13, 1/18, 1/19, and 1/20. Now, the timing of things a bit confusing, so we can maximize our time in the room, but basically, for the Tuesday and Wednesday meetings, we'll have the room 7:00pm-10:00pm, but the Thursday meetings will all be the same as the first, 5:00pm-6:30pm (because Lemelson safety training starts at 7:00pm, and needs the room). You're not required to be at every meeting, but the more you come, the more you can learn and accomplish. For those in need of extra help learning basic sewing skills, I'll offer an optional sewing session at my mod in Enfield over the first weekend. Keep in mind that if you're planning to do the EPEC as an independent study, you'll need to be at most or all of the meetings. Also, I may try to organize a field trip into Hadley the first weekend to buy supplies.

Costs: all of your supplies by the second class meeting, on Tuesday 1/11.

Basic Sewing Supplies: -Fabric scissors (they don't have to be fancy, just never ever used on paper, which dulls them) -Paper scissors (any old scissors will do) -Seam ripper (also known as a button-holer) -Clear ruler with markings to indicate inch, half-inch, etc. (quilting rulers are readily available) -Long dressmaker's pins with glass heads (not plastic), preferably with a magnetic pincushion -Pencils and eraser (nothing special) -Medium hand sewing needles -Tailor's chalk and/or water-erasable fabric marking pen -Sharpie (ideally two, 1 black and 1 colored) -Awl for making holes in fabric -Measuring tape (the sort for sewing, which is made flexible fabric, preferably retractable) -A length of string or ribbon long enough to tie around your waist (for fitting) -If you have your own sewing machine, you should probably bring it along -Medium sewing machine needles for the type of machine you will be using (your own, or one of the Lemelson machines)

Corset Supplies: There are a lot of variables here. The first variable is whether you wish to start from a commercial pattern, or would prefer for me to help you custom-draft a corset pattern. In either case, you will need to do a fitting mock-up of your corset before beginning the real thing. If you want to start with a commercial pattern, you can choose something like one of these: http://www.farthingales.on.ca/silverado.php http://www.farthingales.on.ca/simplicity_9769.php If you choose to custom-draft a pattern, then you will need a roll of duct tape and either a trash bag that will fit around your torso, or a snug-fitting thin shirt which will be destroyed in the process (men's undershirts work well).

In either case, you will also need: -3 or more yards of sturdy cotton twill or sateen fabric (for your mock-up and at least the lining of your final corset) – for the best quality and choices, buy online ahead of time. Fabric.com has some nice cotton sateen fabrics available in different colors, but be certain that you choose a fabric with no synthetic content (100% cotton!), and NO STRETCH. Your final corset will be 2 or 3 layers of fabric, but the lining and interlining can be plain white or colored, it really doesn't matter. -Optional: You can choose a sturdily-woven but decorative fabric for the outside layer of your final fabric, if you want. For instance, you could use a decorative brocade or even a printed quilting cotton, as long as you lined and interlined your corset with sturdier twill or sateen. Again, there must be no stretch in this fabric, and your corset will be more comfortable if you use all natural fibers (rather than synthetic). -Probably large sheets (or a roll, which could be shared) of paper, for drawing out your finished, fitted pattern – you will most likely need to make changes even if you buy a commercial pattern. -30-40 small metal eyelets (you will probably want to get one package that is a “kit” with the setting tools included), or you can use jewelry-making jump rings for reinforced hand-sewn eyelets -8+ yards of sturdy material for corset lacings (narrow cotton twill tape is good) -100% cotton thread to match your corset fabric. You may also want a spool of white for your mock-up. -Optional: Embroidery floss or perle cotton in the decorative color of your choice for doing “flossing” on your corset if you wish to. This is both decorative and functional and was quite popular on 19th century corsets. -Optional: Decorative trim, which would most likely be placed around the top of the corset, if you wish -Optional: Separating busk for the front of your corset. These are busks: http://www.farthingales.on.ca/busks.php Installing a busk in the front of your corset will allow you to partially loosen the laces and then get yourself into and out of the corset. Without a separating busk, you will need a helper to lace you in and get you out each time your wear your corset. A busk costs around $15-$20 and must be mail-ordered. If you are going to want to make a corset with a busk, you will need to place an order soon. If you want help figuring out what length and style busk you need, please contact me and I can try to help. You can make a corset without a busk, but it will function differently from a corset with one; it's a matter of your budget, your plans, and your needs. Let me know if you have any questions. -Boning: there are several different varieties available, but for many purposes, heavy duty plastic cable ties, which you can buy locally at a home improvement store, work quite well. They seem to function much like whalebone (baleen), which is what was generally used in corsetry until nearly the 20th century. One corset will take one or two packages of these, which cost around $4 per package. There are also steel varieties of boning available, which need to be mail ordered. If you think you want to go this route, please contact me about it.

For the first class, students should bring note-taking supplies, a flexible measuring tape if they have it, and any inspiration pictures they have come across, as well as a commercial pattern, if they have one. You will need to have all your supplies the the second class session, on Tuesday 1/11. If anyone looking at this rather absurd amount of information needs clarification or help, please let me know. Everyone is always welcome to email me links and questions. I hope this is helpfu!